Skip to content

On30 Project: Rodgers 2-6-2T

April 11, 2008

Through some random luck on eBay, I managed to win a Rodgers 2-6-0 for about $35.00, which is a fantastic deal considering what you get for your money. It started out life as a typical Ohio River & Western 2-6-0, but it had no Idea what was in store for it..

Originally Inspired by the Terrapin Narrow Gauge Society’s take on the 2-6-2 Logger locomotive, shown here: http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/DG_262ST.htm 

I decided to make one for myself, but with one catch: Since I’m primarily an HO scale Modeler, I had absolutely no O scale detail parts. Therefore, I challenged myself to kit-bash this locomotive from nothing other than what the kit has to offer, which turned out to be just what I needed. The only things that weren’t directly from the locomotive were the wooden rear pilot, the walkways on the top of the tanks, the spout, the trailing truck and some styrene used to build up the oil bunker.

THE KIT-BASH

I digitally kit-bashed it first to make sure it would look pleasing to the eye when completed….

(The original version of the photo was from some on line hobby shop, like train world I think.)

Removing the cab was a real pain, but after some work, it came loose. The Razor Saw is THE most handy tool to do this project, without it, it’d be a nightmare. you can see the beginnings of the oil bunker in the foreground.

Be careful when your saw, make sure your cuts are perfectly straight.

THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT STEPS. Yes, the red dots are perfectly in line with the rivets. 8 towards the cab, 3 away from the cab. DON’T DISCARD THE CENTER of the TENDER!!

This is an OPTIONAL step, if you don’t want an oil burning version. I feel the oil is the best fuel for the job though, because you’d have about 30 minutes of fuel if you had coal or 15 minutes of fuel if you had wood in there.

For additional strength, I added two small pieces of styrene, attached with Walther’s GOO.

Since my locomotive will be working in nice California Weather for most of its life, I decided not to built the All-Weather cab. I also cut up the doors too badly to save them..BUT (!) if you’re careful, cut the doos off the back w/ the razor saw, then attach them to the back of the cab, and Voila, All-weather cab! You also might want to add some sort of back to the cab to complete the look. For my version, I think some canvas on the back of the cab would look nice.

Now you have your four major parts. Next, I’ll show how to attach them all together.

More optional equipment shown, I think the “Hungry Boards” would be an excellent finishing touch.

Basically, the Oil bunker is a .60 box of styrene that fits snugly in the space provided for it, it’s not too diffcult to build. I used the spout from the tender to model the oil dome, which works perfectly and looks prototypical.

A side view showing the fact that the top of the oil bunker is flush with the scalloped edges atop the tender.

Now attach the sides of the cut-up tender to the side of the locomotive. I used some balsa wood to bridge the gap, because it sticks well to walthers GOO and the plastic. It created a nice, strong bond. Make sure to attach the sides WITH the cab on, so you have a realistically flush meeting of the front cab wall the water tender sides.

You can see how I attached the water tanks to both sides in this BOTTOM view looking UP. I’d certianly take the advice of adding weight here, I’d Imagine it could REALLY pull with that additional weight directly over the drivers!

Here’s what the attached, finished tanks look like. The tops of the tank WILL NOT meet the sides of the boiler flush, so I used a but up RUBBER BAND to make a rubber gasket lining the entire inside length of the water tender where it meets at the top. I then went in and painted the locomotive, and added the Basswood platform, and the waterspout A frame.

 

 

I did a rather shoddy job of attaching the trailing wheel to the original metal draw-bar that used to pull the tender around with some left over wire. I also bent the draw-bar upwards in a shallow “S” shape so it can clear the axle.

Finally I just Added a simple balsa wood pilot to the back. You can drill the back and add couplers of your choice, I was considering Link n’ pin couplers for this locomotive.

================================================

The Finished Product

I Hope you really enjoyed this very different tutorial and modeling exercise. I look forward to your comments, and please send photos of your version if you decide to embark on a similar project!

Advertisements
3 Comments leave one →
  1. Geezer permalink
    May 9, 2008 4:03 pm

    Really nice work….I picked up your url from a post on The railroad-Line forum. I worked the 1:1 scale steel mills for 17 years….so maybe I can assist in some way if you ever need information on that era. Regards, Geezer

  2. May 9, 2008 4:26 pm

    Geezer,

    Thank you very much! 🙂

    I’d appreciate your cooperation on some articles if it’d be possible, I think some steel mill articles would be interesting!

  3. Geezer permalink
    June 11, 2008 1:28 pm

    Currently busy at work, and have very little time for modeling right now. But, in the future, I would be more than glad to offer any information as to operations in the Steel Mill business. (Diesel of course) 😉 Alla Best, Geezer

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: