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Let’s Build the Benchwork for A Free-MO Module!

January 31, 2011

Well, after pouring over a variety of methods on how to approach the construction of my module, I stuck with the KISS principle. So, using the required 3/4″ plywood for ends and subroadbed I fashioned the sides out of the same material, and it worked out beautifully. It’s a surprisingly light and strong way to build a module.

Construction was really straightforward, it’s essentially just a pair of 48″X6″ pieces of 3/4″ ply for the sides and 26″X6″ for the ends, with another 48″X6″ piece used for the sub-roadbed of double track mainline. All is held together with drywall screws pilot drilled and countersunk. The end plates overlap the 48″ long pieces making a 50.5″ module overall.

The next step was to glue down the Homasote, which actually took a bit of prepwork to be ready to lay down. As listed in the included instructions from the California Roadbed Company, they suggested you sand both sides with 125 grit sandpaper before nailing or gluing down. I chose to use carpenter’s glue to hold the recycled newspaper homasote product down, applying it with an old paintbrush occasionally whetted with warm water to keep the glue from glopping. I applied it not only to the bottom, but also to the inside edges where the two halves meet for the most positive connection. I then rolled it flat with a can of paint to squish out any irregularities and then let it dry overnight.

I’ve purchased PECO “American Line” Code 83 track and switches for this project to ensure good quality trackwork and operational reliability. Next week we’ll go over how to lay PECO track and put in sidings.

One Comment leave one →
  1. Dan Geiger permalink
    February 8, 2012 1:29 am

    Just a math correction 48 + 3/4 + 3/4 = 49 1/2 not 50 1/2.
    Other than that looking good.

    Dan G

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